Dalhousie Castle and Spa: Where to stay, Edinburgh
Anne Jepson reviews Dalhousie Castle and Spa, a hotel that successfully mixes baronial splendour, architectural quirks and a sense of seclusion and relaxation in Edinburgh.
The lure of Midlothian
Midlothian tends to get forgotten as visitors head straight to Edinburgh or farther north. It was once chiefly known for mining and the vestiges remain – the Innocent Railway (now a popular cycle route from Edinburgh) and excellent The Scottish Mining Museum. The county's hotels provide a good base for exploring the Borders and Edinburgh itself, although most of the local towns, in truth, have little to recommend them to most visitors. Access is easy by car or from Edinburgh airport.
HISTORIC HOUSE
DALHOUSIE CASTLE AND SPA
LOCATION
Five minutes from the city bypass on the banks of the Esk in extensive wooded parkland.
CHARACTER
Has a 700-year history that is fully reflected in the thoughtful décor and sensitive restoration. It successfully mixes baronial splendour, the architectural quirks of its former owners and a real sense of seclusion and relaxation. Notable guests include Queen Victoria, Walter Scott and Edward I, who stayed before defeating William Wallace.
ROOMS
All 14 rooms are themed according to various individuals associated with the castle. They range from classic to heavily draped tartan and exposed stonework. Even Cromwell, who besieged the place for six months, is honoured with a themed room that contains a sturdy oak bed and less ostentatious décor.
FOOD
The barrel-vaulted Dungeon Restaurant serves Scottish food – venison, game and salmon – sourced locally where possible; the Orangery, a large conservatory, is less formal and has a more contemporary menu.
WE LIKE
The spa and the fact the hotel is perfect if you only have a short time but are looking to experience the city as well as something of the life of the laird.
NOT SO KEEN
The powerful smell of a presumably medieval drainage system – a temporary blight that beset the Dungeon Restaurant, or an inescapable facet of castle living? Either way, it did rather mar the dining experience.
ESSENTIALS
01875 820153; dalhousiecastle.co.uk Double b & b from £100.
Anne Jepson, The Telegraph 08-03-2010